石狩鍋 Hokkaido

Ishikari Nabe: A Comprehensive Explanation of the History, Cooking Method, and Authentic Taste of Hokkaido’s Representative Local Cuisine

What is Ishikari Nabe (石狩鍋)?

Ishikari nabe is a Japanese hot pot dish made with salmon as the main ingredient and seasoned with miso, and is one of Hokkaido’s representative local cuisines. As the name suggests, it originated in Ishikari City (formerly Ishikari Town), located at the mouth of the Ishikari River, which is famous for salmon fishing.

In the “100 Selected Japanese Local Cuisines” selected by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, it was chosen as a representative local cuisine of Hokkaido alongside jingisukan and chanchanaki, and has now become a well-known northern delicacy throughout the country.

The greatest characteristic of ishikari nabe is that it uses fresh salmon cut into chunks and “ara” (such as the backbone and head), which are simmered together with vegetables in a miso-based broth. Unlike the often-confused sanpei soup, ishikari nabe uses fresh salmon that has not been salted and is seasoned with miso, which is a major difference.

History, Origin, and Related Events of Ishikari Nabe

The Tradition of Salmon Fishing Continuing from the Edo Period

Salmon fishing has been flourishing in the Ishikari region since the Edo period. In fact, the connection between Ishikari City and salmon is very deep, and records remain indicating that fishing was already being conducted in the Jomon period. The Ishikari River is known for salmon migration, and this abundant marine resource is the background for the birth of ishikari nabe.

Development from Fishermen’s Lunch Fare

The roots of ishikari nabe are said to be in the fishermen’s lunch fare called “dai-nabe.” By the Meiji period, a salmon canning factory was established by the Development Commission, and the lunch fare served to fishermen became the prototype for ishikari nabe.

At that time, fishermen would cut fresh salmon into chunks and eat it directly in a pot containing miso soup. Ishikari nabe was born as a practical dish to warm the body, using fresh salmon without any waste.

Service in Restaurants and Spread Throughout the Country

The restaurant “Kindaite,” which was founded in Meiji 13 (1880), began officially serving this fishermen’s dish on its menu, which made ishikari nabe widely known to the general public. Kindaite remains an important figure in Hokkaido’s food culture history as a key player in spreading ishikari nabe to the world.

Afterward, ishikari nabe became established as a representative local cuisine of Hokkaido and developed into a dish enjoyed by tourists. Currently, restaurants serving ishikari nabe have increased throughout the country, and it is loved as an easy-to-prepare hot pot dish enjoyed at home.

Main Regions of Transmission

The main region of transmission for ishikari nabe is Ishikari City in Hokkaido, particularly the area around the mouth of the Ishikari River. Ishikari City currently makes efforts to preserve and pass on this local cuisine as the birthplace of ishikari nabe.

It is also widely enjoyed throughout the Ishikari region, and is recognized as a standard hot pot dish in various locations throughout the prefecture, including Sapporo. Especially during the cold winter months, it is a dish that symbolizes Hokkaido’s food culture, frequently eaten in homes and restaurants.

Main Ingredients Used

Salmon (Sake)

The main ingredient and star of ishikari nabe is, needless to say, salmon. The authentic method uses fresh, unsalted salmon, and not only chunks of meat but also “ara” such as the backbone and head are used together to bring out a deep umami flavor.

By using bone-in portions, the salmon’s umami dissolves into the broth, creating a rich flavor through synergy with the miso. This contains the wisdom unique to fishermen’s cuisine that makes full use of fresh salmon.

Vegetables

The vegetables used in ishikari nabe are based on cabbage and onions to bring out natural sweetness. These vegetables pair well with miso and, when simmered, their natural sweetness enriches the overall flavor of the pot.

Additionally, radish, Chinese cabbage, Japanese leek, shiitake mushrooms, enoki mushrooms, and other varieties of mushrooms are often added, with various variations depending on the season and household.

Other Ingredients

Tofu and tsuki konnyaku (shirataki) are standard ingredients. Also, depending on the region and household, marine products such as scallops and shrimp may be added, allowing it to be enjoyed as a more luxurious seafood hot pot.

Seasonings

The basic seasoning is miso. Red miso is often used, but combined miso or white miso may also be used. The broth is based on kombu dashi, and since the salmon ara also releases umami, a deep flavor is created with simple seasoning.

The most characteristic element is the sansho (Japanese pepper) sprinkled on top. Sansho suppresses the fishy smell and miso odor, bringing out the umami flavor. This is known as the authentic way to eat ishikari nabe.

How to Make Ishikari Nabe

Ingredients (Serves 4)

Main ingredients:

• Fresh salmon (fillet): 4 pieces (about 400g)
• Salmon ara (backbone, head, etc.): about 200g
• Cabbage: 1/4 head
• Onion: 1
• Chinese cabbage: 1/4 head
• Daikon radish: 1/4
• Japanese leek: 1
• Shiitake mushroom: 4
• Enoki mushroom: 1 package
• Tofu (firm or silken): 1 block
• Shirataki: 1 package

Seasonings:

• Kombu: 1 piece (10cm square)
• Water: 1200ml
• Miso: 4-5 tablespoons (adjust to taste)
• Sake: 2 tablespoons
• Mirin: 1 tablespoon
• Powdered sansho: to taste
• Butter: 20g (optional)

Preparation

1. Prepare kombu dashi: Place water and kombu in a pot and let sit for about 30 minutes, then heat over low heat. Remove the kombu just before boiling.

1. Prepare the salmon: Cut the fresh salmon into bite-sized chunks. Rinse the ara to remove blood and blanch with hot water to remove any odor.

1. Prepare the vegetables: Cut cabbage and onion into bite-sized pieces. Chop Chinese cabbage roughly, cut daikon radish into thin icho (ginkgo leaf) shapes, cut Japanese leek diagonally. Remove the stem from shiitake and remove the base from enoki and separate. Cut tofu into easy-to-eat pieces.

1. Blanch the shirataki: Briefly parboil the shirataki and remove any impurities.

Cooking Steps

1. Heat the broth: Place the kombu dashi in a pot and heat over medium heat.

1. Add the salmon ara: Once the broth is warm, add the salmon ara and simmer. Carefully remove any scum that rises.

1. Add the vegetables: Add vegetables that take longer to cook, such as daikon radish, cabbage, and onion, in order.

1. Add the salmon fillet: Once the vegetables have cooked a bit, add the salmon fillets.

1. Season with miso: Add sake and mirin, then dissolve in the miso. Don’t add all the miso at once; adjust the taste gradually.

1. Add the remaining ingredients: Add Chinese cabbage, Japanese leek, mushrooms, tofu, and shirataki and simmer.

1. Finish: Once everything is cooked through, add butter to taste if desired. Adding butter increases the richness and creates a mellow flavor.

1. Sprinkle sansho: Sprinkle powdered sansho just before eating. This is the authentic way to eat ishikari nabe.

Cooking Tips

• Use the salmon ara: The ara releases deep umami into the broth. Bone-in portions especially produce good broth, so be sure to use them.

• Don’t boil the miso: After adding miso, don’t bring to a hard boil over high heat. Boiling causes the miso’s aroma to dissipate.

• How to use sansho: Sansho removes the fishy smell and plays an important role in enhancing the miso’s aroma. Be sure to add it to enjoy the authentic taste.

• Bring out the vegetables’ sweetness: The natural sweetness of cabbage and onion enriches the pot’s flavor. Simmer slowly to bring out the sweetness.

Occasions and Seasons for Eating

Ishikari nabe is mainly eaten from autumn to winter as a seasonal dish. Particularly during salmon season in autumn (September to November), ishikari nabe made with fresh autumn salmon is considered the most delicious time.

As a dish to warm the body and get through Hokkaido’s long and severe winters, it is frequently prepared in homes. As a hot pot dish that families and friends gather around during cold seasons, it is an indispensable part of Hokkaido dining tables.

For tourists, it is one of the local dishes that must be tasted when visiting Hokkaido, and is served in restaurants throughout the year. Especially during the winter tourism season, many tourists come specifically to try ishikari nabe.

Dining Methods and Authentic Ways to Enjoy It

Sprinkling Sansho is the Local Style

The most characteristic way to eat ishikari nabe is to sprinkle powdered sansho on it. Sansho suppresses fishy smell and miso odor while bringing out umami. In Ishikari City, this sansho is considered an indispensable seasoning for ishikari nabe.

For first-time diners, it’s good to start with a small amount and adjust to your taste. The sansho’s refreshing aroma and spiciness add a perfect accent to the rich miso-based soup.

How to Enjoy the Shime (Finale)

Popular choices for the shime of ishikari nabe include udon, ramen, and rice porridge. The broth infused with salmon umami is delicious and can be enjoyed down to the last drop.

Especially recommended is making rice porridge by adding rice. The rice infused with miso aroma and salmon umami is exceptionally delicious. Adding beaten egg to finish smoothly is also nice.

Butter Arrangement

Recently, adding butter at the finish is also becoming popular. The butter’s richness brings out the miso and salmon’s umami, creating a richer and more mellow flavor. It becomes especially easy to eat for younger generations and children.

Preservation and Succession Efforts

Ishikari City’s Initiatives

Ishikari City, the birthplace of the dish, positions ishikari nabe as an important tourism resource and makes efforts to preserve and pass it on. On the city’s official website, ishikari nabe is promoted, providing information to tourists.

Restaurants in the city serve ishikari nabe while preserving traditional preparation methods while adding arrangements suited to modern tastes, passing on the region’s food culture to the next generation.

Selection as One of 100 Japanese Local Cuisines

By being selected for the “100 Selected Japanese Local Cuisines” by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, ishikari nabe raised its nationwide recognition. This selection established its status as a representative local cuisine of Hokkaido and brought renewed attention to the importance of preserving and passing on food culture.

Commercialization and Contemporary Efforts

Currently, many ishikari nabe instant seasonings and retort products are sold, making it easy to enjoy the authentic taste from anywhere in the country. Through these products, awareness of ishikari nabe has spread further, and home cooking has become easier.

Information sharing through SNS is also active, with recipes and ways to enjoy the dish being introduced by food researchers, food culture experts, and general enthusiasts. Efforts continue to preserve tradition while passing it on to the next generation through contemporary methods.

Hokkaido Dietitian Association’s Initiatives

The Public Interest Incorporated Association Hokkaido Dietitian Association also conducts activities to promote Hokkaido’s local cuisines including ishikari nabe. Its nutritional value has also been evaluated, and it is attracting attention as an aspect of healthy eating.

The high-quality protein, DHA and EPA contained in salmon, dietary fiber and vitamins from vegetables, and the nutritional value of miso as a fermented food—ishikari nabe is being re-evaluated as a nutritionally balanced dish with the rise in health consciousness.

Differences Between Ishikari Nabe and Sanpei Soup

Ishikari nabe is often confused with “sanpei soup,” another local Hokkaido cuisine using salmon. While both are Hokkaido local dishes using salmon, there are clear differences.

Characteristics of ishikari nabe:

• Uses fresh salmon (unsalted salmon)
• Miso-based
• Uses salmon ara as well
• Eaten with sansho sprinkled on top

Characteristics of sanpei soup:

• Uses salted salmon
• Salt-based (no miso)
• Simmered with vegetables
• Simple soup

Understanding this difference allows for a deeper enjoyment of Hokkaido’s food culture.

Japanese Local Cuisine Spreading Worldwide

Japanese local cuisines, including ishikari nabe, have recently attracted worldwide attention. With Japanese cuisine registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, interest in traditional food cultures of various regions has increased.

Ishikari nabe is evaluated internationally as a typical example of Japanese food culture that utilizes local ingredients and incorporates seasonal eating methods. Using salmon, a globally popular ingredient, and seasoned with miso, a uniquely Japanese fermented product, aligns with contemporary food trends internationally.

From the perspective of sustainable use of marine resources, the ishikari nabe cooking method of using salmon without waste is being re-evaluated as traditional wisdom for addressing contemporary food issues.

Summary

Ishikari nabe is a local cuisine originating in Ishikari City, Hokkaido, representing a deeply flavored hot pot dish born from the salmon fishing tradition continuing since the Edo period and the wisdom of fishermen. Simmering fresh salmon and vegetables in a miso-based broth and eating with sansho sprinkled on top is a unique style that developed as a dish to warm the body and endure Hokkaido’s harsh winters.

Now selected as one of the 100 Japanese local cuisines, it has become a representative dish of Hokkaido known throughout the country. While preserving traditional cooking methods, contemporary arrangements have also been added, and it continues to be loved across generations.

Ishikari nabe, which can be made relatively easily at home, is definitely worth trying from autumn to winter when fresh salmon is available. To recreate the authentic taste, remember to prepare sansho. Please enjoy ishikari nabe, a dish symbolizing Hokkaido’s rich food culture, in your own home.