冷や汁 Miyazaki

Hiyajiru (Miyazaki Prefecture’s Local Cuisine) Complete Guide|History, Cooking Method, and Recipes Thoroughly Explained

What is Hiyajiru?

Hiyajiru (冷や汁) is a traditional dish widely known throughout Japan as a representative local cuisine of Miyazaki Prefecture. It is enjoyed as a cold soup dish made by carefully grinding grilled fish flakes, miso, and sesame in a mortar, thinning it with dashi stock, adding seasonings such as cucumber, tofu, and shiso leaves, and pouring it over warm barley rice.

This dish, which developed mainly in the plains of Miyazaki Prefecture, has been passed down as a valuable source of nutrition for people engaged in farming and fishing in the hot and humid subtropical climate where the sun shines brilliantly. In recent years, as food culture information has spread, it has become widespread throughout the prefecture and has become established as a summer home-cooked dish.

The greatest characteristic of hiyajiru is the unique texture created by the temperature difference between the cold soup and warm rice, combined with the rich umami of miso, the fragrant aroma of sesame, and the crisp texture of fresh vegetables creating a complex flavor. Even in the hot summer months, it stimulates appetite and allows for quick nutritional replenishment, making it beloved by many people today as a practical dish.

History, Origins, and Related Events

The Origins and Development of Hiyajiru

There are various theories about the origins of hiyajiru, but it is believed to have been devised by farmers and fishermen in Miyazaki Prefecture to quickly obtain nutrition without much effort during busy farming and fishing work. Originally, it was made as a simple instant sauce with simple ingredients.

Similar dishes to hiyajiru appear in documents from the Edo period, suggesting that it had been rooted in the common people’s dining tables for a long time. At that time, knowledge developed on how to efficiently obtain valuable protein sources by utilizing preserved foods such as dried fish and miso.

Over time, hiyajiru evolved, with more elaborate cooking methods becoming established, such as carefully grinding roasted sesame and miso in a mortar and using iriko (dried small fish) for the dashi. This reflects the fact that life became more comfortable and more time could be spent on cooking.

Role in Regional Society

In the Miyazaki plains area, hiyajiru frequently appeared on the dinner table during the busy summer farming season. For bodies tired from rice planting and harvesting work, cold and nutritious hiyajiru was an ideal meal. It was a common sight on farms for families to make large quantities of hiyajiru in big mortars and share it among all family members.

In fishing towns, hiyajiru made with fresh fish developed. Fresh blue fish such as horse mackerel and sardines were grilled and shredded, and then cooked the same day, creating delicious hiyajiru that maximized the freshness of the fish.

In modern times, hiyajiru is often served at summer festivals and community events, also taking on the role of a dish that connects the community.

Major Areas of Transmission

Although hiyajiru is eaten throughout Miyazaki Prefecture, it has been particularly well transmitted in the plains areas centered around the Miyazaki plains. Of course, it is popular in major cities such as Miyazaki City, Miyakonojo City, and Nobeoka City, and unique hiyajiru cultures have developed in regions such as Hyuga City and Saito City.

The types of fish used, the types of miso, and the combinations of seasonings vary subtly by region and family, with each household and community having their own “family taste” passed down. In coastal areas, fresh ocean fish are used, while inland areas utilize river fish and dried fish, showing diversity that makes use of regional ingredients.

In recent years, the reputation of hiyajiru has increased outside Miyazaki Prefecture, and it has come to be served in restaurants throughout the country, but the authentic Miyazaki hiyajiru possesses an exceptional flavor using traditional methods and fresh local ingredients.

Main Ingredients Used

Basic Ingredients

The main ingredients needed to make hiyajiru are as follows.

Fish: Blue fish such as horse mackerel, sardines, and mackerel are traditionally used. Dried fish may also be used, characterized by preservation and concentrated umami. When using fresh fish, it is carefully shredded after grilling.

Miso: Barley miso is common in Miyazaki Prefecture, but some households use rice miso or blended miso. Traditionally, the miso is roasted to bring out its fragrant aroma.

Sesame: White sesame is roasted and then ground in a mortar, creating a fragrant and rich-flavored result. Sesame is an important ingredient that determines the flavor of hiyajiru.

Tofu: Either firm or silken tofu is used. When cut into small cubes and added, it replenishes protein and adds a smooth texture.

Cucumber: Sliced into rounds or thin slices and added. The crisp texture and refreshing flavor give hiyajiru a cool, clean feeling.

Seasonings: Shiso leaves (green perilla), myoga (Japanese ginger), and green onions are used. These seasonings add aroma and color to the hiyajiru.

Dashi: Iriko (dried small fish) dashi, kelp dashi, and bonito dashi are used. The type and strength of dashi differ by household, showing individual characteristics.

Rice: Traditionally barley rice is used, but some households use white or brown rice. Warm rice is the basic approach.

Variations in Ingredients by Region and Season

In the summer months, fresh vegetables are abundant, and some households add tomatoes or okra in addition to cucumber. Additionally, using seasonal fish allows for enjoying the seasonal atmosphere.

Ingredients (Serves 4)

Here we introduce the ingredients in detail for making traditional hiyajiru.

• Dried horse mackerel or fresh horse mackerel: 2 fish (about 200g)
• Barley miso: 4 tablespoons (about 70g)
• White sesame: 3 tablespoons
• Dashi stock (iriko dashi): 600ml
• Firm tofu: 1 block (300g)
• Cucumber: 2
• Shiso leaves: 10 leaves
• Myoga: 2
• Ice: as needed
• Barley rice or white rice: 4 servings

Points on Selecting Ingredients

Fish: When using fresh horse mackerel, select ones with clear eyes and firm flesh. When using dried fish, selecting high-quality ones with good fat content results in delicious results.

Miso: Using Miyazaki Prefecture-produced barley miso will bring you closer to the authentic taste. Adjust the amount of dashi stock according to the salt concentration of the miso.

Sesame: While you may purchase roasted sesame, roasting raw sesame yourself results in dramatically better aroma.

Vegetables: Select cucumbers with minimal curves and uniform thickness. Use fresh shiso leaves and myoga with strong aroma.

Cooking Method (Traditional Technique)

Preparation

1. Preparing the fish: When using dried horse mackerel, grill both sides in a frying pan or fish grill until golden brown. When using fresh horse mackerel, fillet into three pieces and then grill. Once cooked, allow to cool slightly, then carefully remove bones and skin and shred the flesh.

1. Preparing the sesame: Roast white sesame in a frying pan over low heat. Once it becomes fragrant and lightly colored, turn off the heat and allow to cool.

1. Preparing the vegetables: Slice cucumber into thin rounds, lightly salt it, then squeeze out the water. Cut shiso leaves into thin strips and slice myoga thinly. Cut tofu into small cubes.

1. Preparing the dashi: Make dashi with iriko. Add 20g iriko to 600ml water, steep for about 30 minutes, then heat over medium heat and remove the iriko just before boiling. Chill the dashi in the refrigerator.

Cooking Steps for Hiyajiru

1. Roasting the miso: Spread miso thinly on aluminum foil and roast in a toaster oven or fish grill until the surface browns. This adds a fragrant aroma to the miso. If roasting in a frying pan, heat slowly over low heat and be careful not to burn.

1. Mixing in the mortar: Place roasted sesame in a mortar and grind thoroughly with a pestle. Continue grinding until the sesame oil releases and the mixture becomes paste-like. Add the roasted miso and grind further together.

1. Adding the fish: Add the shredded fish to the mortar and grind together with the miso and sesame. Continue carefully grinding until the fish fibers break down and the whole mixture becomes uniform.

1. Thinning with dashi: Add the chilled dashi stock little by little while mixing thoroughly with the pestle. Continue mixing until the miso completely dissolves and becomes a smooth soup.

1. Adding ingredients: Add tofu, cucumber, shiso leaves, and myoga and mix lightly. Add a few ice cubes to chill further.

1. Chilling in the refrigerator: Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 1 hour to allow flavors to blend.

1. Serving: Place warm barley rice in a bowl and pour plenty of hiyajiru over it to finish.

Tips and Points for Cooking

• Importance of the mortar: By grinding thoroughly in a mortar, the sesame oil is extracted, and the miso and fish become integrated, creating a rich flavor. Taking time to grind carefully is the secret to deliciousness.

• Reason for roasting the miso: Roasting the miso adds a fragrant aroma and creates a deep, complex flavor. Be careful not to roast too much, as this can result in bitterness.

• Temperature contrast: The temperature difference between cold hiyajiru and warm rice is the charm of hiyajiru. Keep the hiyajiru well-chilled until just before eating.

• Dashi strength: The dashi strength can be adjusted to preference, but using a concentrated dashi adds depth of flavor.

Easy Cooking Method (Modern Arrangement)

Since the traditional method is time-consuming, here we introduce an easy cooking method adapted to modern busy lifestyles.

Time-Saving Recipe

1. Using canned products: Using canned mackerel or tuna eliminates the need to grill fish. Shred the canned fish and use it.

1. Skipping the miso roasting: Omit the miso roasting step and use raw miso directly. While the fragrant aroma is reduced, this significantly shortens the time.

1. Using ground sesame: Instead of grinding roasted sesame, use commercially available ground sesame or sesame paste for convenience.

1. Using granulated dashi: Instead of making dashi with iriko, using granulated dashi allows you to start cooking immediately.

1. Food processor: Using a food processor or blender instead of a mortar results in a smooth finish in a short time.

Occasions and Seasons for Eating

Hiyajiru is eaten mainly in summer, particularly from June to September during the hot season. It has been valued as a meal after physically demanding work such as rice planting and harvesting during the busy farming season and during the peak fishing season.

In modern times, it can be eaten year-round, but it still has a strong character as a summer local dish and is preferred as a lunch or dinner on hot days. The sight of families gathering around hiyajiru during the Obon holiday season when they return home has become a summer symbol of Miyazaki Prefecture.

Eating Methods and Ways to Enjoy

Basic Way of Eating

The traditional way to eat hiyajiru is to pour plenty of cold hiyajiru over warm barley rice and eat it smoothly in one go. The contrast between hot and cold is exquisite, and appetite advances even on hot days.

One way of eating is to start with a small amount of hiyajiru to taste, then gradually increase the amount. The ratio of rice to hiyajiru can be adjusted to preference, but eating it with plenty of hiyajiru and smoothly is the Miyazaki style.

Arrangements and Applications

Pouring over somen noodles: Using hiyajiru as a dipping sauce for somen noodles is also popular. It has become an established summer menu item.

Hiyajiru ochazuke: A method of pouring hiyajiru over cooled rice and eating it completely cold. The key is to chill the rice as well so it doesn’t become lukewarm.

Ingredient variations: Adding seasonal vegetables such as tomatoes, okra, eggplant, and bitter melon to the traditional ingredients enriches nutrition and color.

Seasoning ingenuity: Adding ginger, garlic, wasabi, or yuzu pepper changes the flavor profile.

Nutritional Value and Health Benefits

Hiyajiru is a well-balanced nutritional dish. From fish, you obtain high-quality protein and unsaturated fats such as DHA and EPA; from tofu, plant-based protein; from sesame, calcium and vitamin E; and from vegetables, vitamins, minerals, and dietary fiber.

The nutrients specific to fermented foods contained in miso improve intestinal environment and are effective in preventing summer fatigue. Additionally, cold soup aids digestion and gently affects a stomach tired from heat.

Using barley rice provides more dietary fiber than white rice and is expected to have the effect of suppressing rapid blood sugar spikes.

Preservation and Inheritance Efforts

Household Transmission

In Miyazaki Prefecture, the way to make hiyajiru is passed down from grandmother to mother to daughter. Each household has its own unique flavoring and combination of ingredients, becoming a dish that remains in memory as “grandma’s taste.”

The sight of teaching grandchildren the way to make hiyajiru during summer vacation when they return home is a traditional scene seen in many households in Miyazaki Prefecture.

Use in School Lunch Programs

In school lunch programs throughout Miyazaki Prefecture, hiyajiru is regularly provided as a local dish. It serves as an important opportunity to convey the region’s food culture to children and contributes to transmission to younger generations.

In school lunch programs, while based on heated cooking for hygiene considerations, methods of serving are devised to bring out the characteristics of hiyajiru.

Provision at Restaurants

In local cuisine restaurants and izakayas throughout Miyazaki Prefecture, hiyajiru is provided as a standard menu item. Specialty restaurants that provide authentic hiyajiru for tourists are increasing, expanding opportunities for those visiting Miyazaki Prefecture to experience the taste of the region.

In major urban areas such as Tokyo and Osaka, Miyazaki cuisine specialty restaurants provide hiyajiru, contributing to increased national recognition.

Commercialization Efforts

Numerous products have been developed such as hiyajiru seasoning packets, retort-sterilized products, and freeze-dried products, allowing households to easily enjoy authentic hiyajiru. These products are available for purchase at Miyazaki Prefecture antenna shops and online shops, making it possible for people living outside the prefecture and busy modern people to easily enjoy hiyajiru.

Product development by local companies is evaluated as an effort to preserve traditional flavors while providing hiyajiru in forms suited to modern lifestyles.

Dissemination via SNS

In recent years, the appeal of hiyajiru has been disseminated nationally through SNS. Particularly on Instagram and Twitter, photos of beautifully plated hiyajiru and posts introducing home cooking methods have become popular.

Searching with hashtags such as “#hiyajiru” and “#Miyazaki local cuisine” reveals diverse arranged recipes and eating methods being shared, expanding new ways to enjoy traditional dishes.

Activities of Preservation Organizations and Groups

Within Miyazaki Prefecture, organizations working to preserve and transmit local cuisine conduct cooking instruction sessions and events for hiyajiru. Through these activities, the correct way of making it and historical background are passed on to the next generation.

Tourist associations and municipalities also position hiyajiru as a local tourism resource and conduct active promotion activities such as PR events and cooking contests.

Hiyajiru and Similar Dishes in Other Regions

While hiyajiru is most famous in Miyazaki Prefecture, similar dishes actually exist throughout Japan.

Saitama Prefecture’s hiyajiru: There is also a dish called “hiyajiru” in northern Saitama Prefecture, but this one is characterized by a sweet soup seasoned with sesame, sugar, and soy sauce without miso.

Yamagata Prefecture’s hiyajiru: Yamagata Prefecture also has a cold soup dish, but a lightly-flavored soup using dashi is the mainstream.

Miyazaki Prefecture’s hiyajiru is unique in using fish and creating a rich flavor with miso and sesame, and has clear differences from similar dishes in other regions.

Tidbits for Enjoying Hiyajiru

Compatibility with Barley Rice

Barley rice is traditionally used with hiyajiru for a reason. Barley rice has larger grains than white rice and combines well with hiyajiru. Additionally, the fragrant aroma of barley enhances the flavor of hiyajiru.

If you dislike barley rice, you may start with “barley-mixed rice” that combines white rice and barley. Gradually increasing the barley ratio will bring you closer to the authentic taste of hiyajiru.

Flavor Changes by Season

Even using the same recipe, the flavor of hiyajiru changes by season. In summer, fresh vegetables contain more water, resulting in a light, fresh taste. In early autumn, vegetables increase in sweetness, creating a milder flavor.

Enjoying these subtle seasonal changes is one of the pleasures of hiyajiru.

Ways to Use Leftover Hiyajiru

Hiyajiru can be enjoyed deliciously the next day if you make too much. Letting it sit overnight allows flavors to blend and become smoother. However, since tofu and vegetables spoil easily, it is recommended to eat it within 2 days.

One method is to warm leftover hiyajiru and drink it as regular miso soup. Warming it creates a completely different flavor experience.

Summary

Hiyajiru is a traditional local dish of which Miyazaki Prefecture can be proud, and contains the wisdom of ancestors for surviving hot summers. Using simple ingredients such as fish, miso, sesame, tofu, and vegetables, you can create a nutritionally balanced dish in a short time.

While the traditional method creates a deep flavor by carefully grinding in a mortar, in modern times, short-cut recipes and commercially available hiyajiru seasoning packets make it possible for anyone to easily enjoy the authentic taste.

Hiyajiru is passed down to the next generation in diverse forms including household transmission, provision in school lunch programs, inclusion on restaurant menus, and dissemination through SNS. When visiting Miyazaki Prefecture, by all means taste authentic hiyajiru. Furthermore, making it at home allows you to realize the depth of this local dish.

Hiyajiru is not merely a dish, but rather a cultural heritage in which Miyazaki Prefecture’s climate, history, and people’s way of life are concentrated. The next generation is called upon to preserve this traditional flavor while allowing it to evolve to suit modern lifestyles.